Saturday, April 20, 2024

A Travelogue - and Systemic versus Incidents of Exclusion

 

Systemic versus Incidents of Exclusion

 

Went through 25 days of charming and exhausting days of travel spanning three countries.   At 1:00 AM the roads in Bangalore were smooth.  The Toyota Etios cab seemed as spacious most in US.  The AC worked well.  Our previous Uber in NY was a Tesla with a translucent sunroof.  The car was driven by a Nepali Sherpa – his last name as a sherpa.  An hour of commute was peppered with conversations about US and India and Nepal and treks   The Uber drivers in US and France seemed to come from many countries – and many religions.  It is said that the US is a melting pot – and so it is.  Different cultures drawn from across the world seemed to melt into this pot, and come out homogenized, mostly accepted, and mostly conform to an American identity.  Any person who intends to live in the US – student, visiting professionals, immigrants implicitly subscribes to such a model.  While personal freedoms and privacy reign supreme, the question is, are there unsaid  limits to expression of identity of the sub-cultures they come from.  But the collective American identity in its intent is inclusive – so how much is lost.

 




India had started with a different legacy.  Being a tropical country with abundant resources – of spices, textiles, crafts, India was one of hubs of global trade for centuries.  Buddhism emanated from its shores and spread to many locations – especially the far east.  Hinduism found its branches in Cambodia and Bali.  Christian, Zoroastrian, Islamic and Jewish traders immigrated and thrived along India’s coast.  While there were chapters of invasion and colonization.  The prevailing culture in India, at the time of independence in India was a mosaic – of cultures, languages and religions.   The founding fathers of India protected this legacy fiercely.  Many liberals including me carry the torch farther, taking the enormity of space and freedoms given for religious and cultural expressions granted, barely acknowledging  what has been preserved since 1947, and what has been carved out as an Indian version of diversity and unity for centuries prior.

 

France was our first port of call.  The city taxi cab counter at the Charles De Gaulle airport had its string of drivers who accosted us saying there is heavy traffic and it is going to take 90 minutes and therefore a fare of 140 Euros.  The Uber app mentioned 66 Euros.  After plenty of back and forth with cancelling drivers we found one who asked us to come to the departure gate.  We got dropped an hour later at the hotel.  The hotel was managed by an immigrant of of a French colonial origin.  With long locks, excellent English, and helpful to the bone – he got us the room, offered a pizza – and gave tons of help to explore the city on our own.  The cobble-stoned streets of MontMartre, with its ancient churches and cemeteries and restaurants and shops had us hooked,  a  small dinner and a glass of dinner made it a text-book Paris evening.  And thus went the remaining two days in Paris – the Rodin Museum, the Versailles Palace, Bastille monument and the jewish quarters and the Louvre – Paris seemed welcoming, accessible, charming, replete with history all rolled in one.  About 10% of its citizens practise Islam.  What is seen on the roads is quintessentially French culture – a blend of modern and the old – of churches and the gothic.  The Louvre and Versailles are emphatic examples of the same.   But there was no evidence of religious diversity.

 

Amsterdam is European to the E, a country whose terrain is as flat as a very successful flat stomach, blessed with answers for sustainability that blow in the wind, with wind turbines, and windmills, bi-cycling tracks that have  primacy over cars, and where public transportation rules.  It was interesting that we did not use an uber or a car during our stay in Amsterdam and around.  It was easy to blend in at Amsterdam.  By now much of western Europe is multi-cultural.  But Amsterdam has done a brilliant job holding on to its way of life – of superposing an efficient modern mobility system, with sustainability being a mantra (27% of commutes by bicycles!), in a landscape replete with historical heritage.  The Rijswijk museum, like Rodin in Paris and the Met in NY and historic Boston,  had school excursions of boisterous school kids shepherded by enthusiastic school teachers.  The school group in Boston had only Asians (Indian and East Asian origin).  In Netherlands there were a couple of girls wearing the headscarf – the only 4 or 5 spotted after 3,50,000 steps in 25 days in France, US and Netherlands, and saw one structure with Minarets in Netherlands and two synagogues – one in Manhattan and the other in Jewish quarters in Paris.

 

Which brings us back to inclusion or exclusion, systemic or incidents thereof in the different countries and continents I am exposed to. 

 

Coming to India, which I am at home in, which I criticize squarely like a quarrelling family member, I need to acknowledge that there is an in-your face vibrant diversity that is part of the landscape, flowing in our veins, and everywhere one looks.  While money flowed out in buckets from my wallets, I was on top of bank and credit card balances – accessing it through portals from across.  And watched the stock market too.  It was closed on Eid, the facebook and whatsapp pages had Eid Mubarak from many within the country. A day that seemed altogether ignored in mainstream media in US.   Our schools and offices were closed on Good Friday – march 29th, which we landed up in the US on the Easter weekend – with hotel prices heading north for a festive weekend.  We quarrel with India as it works now, based on exclusion events – some violent – which grabs headline and eyeballs.  It could be a past case of lynching, it could be remission of convicts, it could be on CAA (is it a systemic tamper at an inclusive society?).  But the system makes space for every religion which seems as natural and part of the landscapes as cherry blossoms in spring or tulips in Netherlands.  So are we conditioned to challenge sporadic events while we gloss over the freedom of expression that is inherent to India?  It is importtant that we acknowledge that because then our voices become more credible. Is there a nucleus for a change for the better?  For getting past violent events that pop us so regularly in India? This is a question to India.  Of exclusion and violence as part of a systemic history, the New York Met museum seems to have an interesting take – of showing to the choir (after all who goes to Met?) a mirror of what is great from across the world – Ganesha over the ages, Islamic art. The renaissance from Europe, American realism, and spaces for misses too - that show case the Native Indian art from across tribes, and the Harlem Renaissance movement – showcasing the world of arts from African Americans.   But outside the New York Met the question that really needs to be asked is are freedoms of expression of subcultures truly ingrained in day to day life?  Or is dissolving oneself in the larger whole, the current terms of endearment.  These are of course gentle puzzles and questions, that need to be ponder over in our different corners of the world.